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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.